gearin up for christmas

You may be wondering what my villagers are doing at this time while you’re cutting out of work early to meet friends for Christmas cocktail parties? Around manga, people are gearing for the rains. Yepp, that means, working the fields, tilling the soil by hand with a hoe, cutting down the old cornstalks to plant new ones, barefoot, in the hot hot sun. i know, i know, it’s December, but this is their summer! It’s quite toasty these days, and the work is brutal. Pictured is my neighbor, Jennifer (in background), working the hoe, and in forefront, bamboo with a contraption on top to collect the juice. Fresh bamboo juice is quite the rave here. the alcoholic version is also a favorite, called “ulanzi,” or bamboo wine. It probably comes second though to “pombe” or corn beer, a more popular drink. Manga is all about some corn! Seriously you all, if you replaced our corn and bamboo with grapes and olives, it would look just like Tuscany! The landscapes are amazingly similar, especially as you gaze into the distance.



Manga is still talking about the World AIDS day celebration on December 1, last week. It was quite a day. It began by all 1000+ people marching in along the main road from the health center into the primary school grounds (passing my house), playing drums and whistles, singing. There were students from our primary school, as well as from neighboring villages, their parents, teachers, local leaders, as well as our guests from CHASAWAYA, the NGO I assist weekly that helps orphans in Makambako. Their director brought 15 of their students up for the day to participate in the festivities. What a show it was – each school performed a song, dance, drum show, and skit/dramatic poem about AIDS. Additionally, I gave a 30-minute educational message in Kiswahili (yikes) regarding AIDS prevention, symptoms, etc., using games and participatory techniques for the kids (which shocked the crowd-definitely not the style used here-more didactic).



People seemed quite pleased, especially with the AIDS ribbons I made. After pinning each performing student and leader, I explained to all that these red ribbons signify a call to rally against HIV/AIDS, and to show respect for those infected and affected by the disease worldwide. The ribbons made the kids feel really special. In fact, I’ve seen some of them on my walk down to the river STILL wearing them!

The director of CHASAWAYA gave a great speech on the important role of parents in educating their children about the danger of AIDS. The orphans of CHASAWAYA stole the show, dancing, singing, even reciting poetry about AIDS’ dangers. I wish you all could have heard the beats, their voices – talk about goose bumps. Can those kids shake it! At one point, our Ward Executive Officer (WEO) and I got up to join them dancing. They got a big kick out of that. Everyone wants to see the white girl dance.

I wanted to demonstrate the kind-of flipchart work I’ve been doing, especially for AIDS day, too. I thank all of you who have sent markers and those jumbo sharpies (a savior). I couldn’t have completed half of these without you all’s help. Thanks also to Hallie for the balloons! They made perfect decorations and everyone loved them!



*More pictures from the day at:
http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=226111134289802355/l=70587669/cobrandOid=1000001/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

The next day following AIDS day, I crashed. I felt like I could sleep for days, and I did. After feeling abnormal energy loss, I realized I must have gotten some sort of food poisoning, which kept me inside for 3 days. Through this experience, I learned A LOT about how Tanzanians treat those who are sick; it was truly a cross-cultural lesson. Here’s what you can expect if you fall ill in TZ, in case you were wondering:
· People will come in droves to come look at you - just to look, poke, and to check on your condition
· They will arrive at all hours of the day, starting at about, ohhhhh 6:45 am! Truly. Not exaggerating.
· They will insist on waking you up from your nap, sleep, or rest to talk, or again, to look at you.
Of course, for us individualistic Americans, we want to be sick alone, in our rooms, MAYBE with our moms, and we really don’t enjoy talking when we’re sick, do we? Not here! They won’t have it. The village doctor came one day and demanded Sara wake me up from my nap to look at me. She came into my room, and I refused, saying I was fine – just wanted to sleep, that’s all. Later, he returned (only a few hours later), and informed me that I had “sunken eyes and looked dehydrated.” Thank you, I said. Needless to say, stuck in this cross-cultural quandary, I was not a happy camper, but gradually gave into the way things go around here; and in the process, I learned a lot about how individualistic our culture really is, and how community-based Tanzania is in all aspects of life. They really were doing all of this out of love and care for me…it was just hard to see that at first.

Speaking of cultural lessons, I ate a hamster a few days after I recovered. How’s that for a welcome back to the ole tummy. Hello! When my friend Stef came to visit, we were both shocked to learn that people in Manga keep hamsters not as pets, but for dinner. They roast them. They sell for about 20 cents, but what a treat they are….not really, but I have to pretend it was delicious for their sake. The villagers got such a laugh that I’d never tasted one before. I told them I’d show you all a picture of this phenomenon and so, hence, this picture (my friends and hamster grilling experts, Rahema and Fadila)



On the subject of food, I wanted to thank those of you who have brilliantly sent me packaged tuna. I love you. Finding lean proteins around here is quite a toil (as you see aboveJ), so I praise you: Brooke&Townsend Bankroft, Hallie, my Dad, Rich Martin, my favorite fireman in Florida, and Kathy&Chris Gilson. Really, thank you!

Christmas. Can’t really believe it’s here. It sure doesn’t feel like it here – it’s hot, there’s not a Christmas tree in sight, no one decorates, sadly there aren’t holiday carols sung on BBC on my shortwave radio, and we’re certainly missing gingerbread lattes at our village café! However, good ole Christy D supplied a Santa Claus, nativity scene and holly to hang in my house. It’s been fun to try and explain to my friends here. They just don’t get Santa. I guess I wouldn’t either.

I’m really looking forward to visiting my SIT classmate and Tanzanian native (with Maasai ancestry), Frida Tomito, for this first major holiday. She is one of the sweetest women I know and was a favorite at school. She’s invited me for her niece’s baptism on Christmas day. It’ll be nice to get to know her family and to have a Christian family to celebrate the big day with. Plus, it’ll provide an opportunity to experience the northern town of Arusha, which is located very close to the infamous Ngorongoro Crater. One of my PC friends is stationed there, too, so hope to see her world.


(*yes, that’s Condoleeza Rice painted on the back of bus. probably my favorite bus of the many i've taken so far. who says westernization doesn’t exist?*)

From Arusha (a 14 hour bus ride from Makambako), I will travel to Dar (8 hour bus ride), and then continue on to Zanzibar (a 2 hour ferry ride from Dar). Crazy schedule huh? Somehow, long bus rides are starting to become second nature. And I remember thinking the drive to Highlands was kind-of long for the weekend? What? Only 2 1/2 hours. How spoiled was I? Jumping in my car and just going is such a far away notion at this point. I have to admit I dream about it often, but then again, would I be able to meet Tanzanian nuns from all over the country if I was in my car alone? I LOVE NUNS. I’m thinking about becoming one post-PC. What do ya’ll think? Eh? Just kidding, but it really is quite a cool profession. You love others, learn the Bible inside and out, and travel the country. They are often the only women I see on transport. Most other Tanzanian women don’t travel – either can’t afford it, business doesn’t call for it clearly, or they must be at home taking care of kids, cooking, doing the endless work that women do!



So, yes, back to Zanzibar. Exotic. I can’t wait to report on this trip. I really have no idea what to expect. I’ve heard this island has a culture of its own, disconnected with the mainland. To demonstrate, they say their chai is more distinct with spices (and locally grown vanilla), they use coconut oil in the place of regular oil, they eat fresh fish (can not wait), and the people are more laid-back (if that is possible) and predominantly Muslim. We’re staying in Paje, a small south-eastern town on the coast. I’ll be thinking of you all toasting with your champagne as we jam out to reggae on the Indian Ocean. A different sort of New Years it will be…

In the spirit of Christmas and giving -- if you are in that spirit -- I thought I’d mention two opportunities here in my village where your money could be put to good use:
1) Sponsoring a Secondary School Student.
School doesn’t start until mid-January, but there are many students, especially girls, who could really use some extra funds (Fathers here often invest in their sons’ education more than their daughters and thus, the girls are required to return home for housework, while the boys may continue – this is if they’re lucky). Most kids, however, stop being educated after they finish primary school (at about 15 years old). However, secondary school in my village only costs $25 per year (as its partly supported by the government), so for all four years, that comes to $100 total. If you do want to commit to this, it’s essential that you commit to all four years so we can guarantee a complete education for the child. Checks can be mailed to my mom, who can then mail me a check to deposit into my account here in Tanzania, which will enable me to disperse funds directly to the Secondary Headmaster, who would be incredibly grateful! Feel free to request a girl/boy, and I can put you in touch with him/her. I’m sure they’d be more than happy to write to their new friend and supporter.

A girl recently came to my door by foot from her home 20 km away to beg for funding. Her father was refusing to support her anymore for aforementioned reasons (which I discovered upon talking to Headmaster, who went to their home to investigate). I refused at that time because I didn’t want to encourage begging, but the need is there. And I feel like if I can give funds to the Headmaster, things will roll a bit more smoothly and directly.

2) Buying a traditional basket woven by a group of mamas in my village to support community endeavors (coming June 2006:).
Upon recently receiving a beautiful basket woven by hand by a neighbor as a gift, I started thinking about how my Mom is coming in May and how any of my friends/family would love one of these (pictured below). They’re fabulous, and are made by hand, with love, over several days. Can you believe the big ones only sell for about 80 cents here? They’re Kibena tradition – distinct to this southwestern region. This woman learned from her mother who was taught by her mother and so on. Any time of the day, you’ll see women balancing these on their head, full of corn flour, rice, or other goods. Anyway, Mom if you’re up for it, and can bring an extra bag to squeeze in some baskets, I think these would make great gifts, and you could trust that the profits will be going to a great cause – directly to my village to support future village developmental projects, designed by them.



Wishing you all much peace and love in 2006,
Tait

*Album of pictures from the successful Girls' Empowerment Week in Dar:
http://www.snapfish.com/share/p=80101134287748891/l=70587665/cobrandOid=1000001/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB