Gooood weekend

This past Saturday, our Social Work department hosted the Peace House's very first "Career Panel." Our special guests included my friend Frida Tomito, an A'town resident, currently coordinating exchanges with Arcadia University study abroad and research programs, and Father Jack, a pilot and priest whose parish neighbors the Peace House. The pilot stole the show since most of our students are fascinated by planes as we border the Arusha airport. He had them on the edge of their seats, even showing a DVD of personal footage flying in his Cessna from Austria to Egypt over Sudan and finally landing back in TZ. He encouraged our students to pursue something they're interested in and passionate about as opposed to working for money only; that'll come with time, he explained. Frida pushed the kids to take advantage of this blessing called free (nearly free - each child's family is requested to contribute a mere $20/year for tuition) education.

Jack also encouraged them to read about the career that most tugs at their hearts and minds. If you want to become a pilot, read everything you can on the subject, he advised. Unfortunately, it's nearly impossible for most Tanzanians - especially vulnerable ones - to afford pilot training and certification, but you never know...opportunities could arise later. And you might as well learn about it in the meantime.

Being curious: it's an attribute I've been emphasizing as well in my time with the kids. It's not a cultural norm, but I hope to increase the question-asking habit around campus, particularly amongst the girls. From what I've observed so far, it's minimal. I'm not surprised; this is no different from the other communities I've worked with in TZ. This is the way it is. But it doesn't have to be.

On Sunday after service, we hosted Muindaji, a local musician, who soothed the students like Sade to tunes like "Africa unite" and other Bob Marley and Otis Redding numbers. It was a hit. He was informed this weekend - after a year of living here - that his name is actually Muindaji (Hunter), not Mwindaji (someone who goes). Hmmm. Better too late than never.

During the Sunday service, which is Lutheran in style (our school land is on Lutheran church grounds), our headmistresses' 2-year old son joined me on my lap. Daniel has officially replaced my previous church cuddling partner in Manga, dada Tumaini. There's just something magical about holding a child on your lap. Throughout the service, he sucked LOUDLY on three to four of his fingers. Precious. And he tried on my watch like it was no big thing. He's fascinated with technology; so far my headlamp, watch and keys have provided the most entertainment.

Lutheran we may be, but what about our Muslim students? Where and how do they worship? Hence, my very first question when I arrived to PH. Unfortunately, our hands seem to be tied due to our contractual agreement with the Lutheran church. I wonder if and how this may be changed. Muslim students deserve the opportunity to worship in their own way. Most of the staff say they should just be thankful to be here and should adjust accordingly. Unfortunately, we're a far cry from implementing religious freedom, but hopefully with time, things will change.

I was reminded of the last worship I attended (which I forgot to blog about) when I completely forget an offering; having noticed my lack of change, the boy sitting to my left unhaltingly handed me half of his offering so that I could contribute at that altar as we do here. He had the equivalent of 20 cents. So I gave 10 and he gave 10. True generosity. Though no one can deny the insane level of fisadi or corruption in this country - clearly, at the core of most Tanzanians is this seflessness, an unconditional sense of sharing, giving and loving.

These kids are really growing on me...

"Time is a flowing river. Happy those who allow themselves to be carried, unresisting with the current. They float through easy days. They live, unquestioning, in the moment."
- Christopher Morley

First month of work down. First drumming lesson had.

Some students at our Saturday service day, volunteering farming acumen at a local primary school. A large part of my responsibilities includes planning Saturday and Sunday activities.
Our first away netball match at the International School-Arusha. This is the first time our girls had ever worn position-appropriate jerseys, played on a legitimate court and were reffed using international netball rules. Who knew they existed??
Sauti za Busara - The Sounds of Wisdom, Zanzibar Music Fest in Stonetown's old fort.

Now back to this drumming thing. What?, you ask.

Well, in honor of the new year and my 30th birthday just around the corner, I decided - along with some help/encouragement from my friends - to pursue drumming. Ever since I was a 4th grader at Warren T. Jackson, I've had a strong, unexplicable desire to play drums (too loud, said Mom:). Every time I listen to music, I hone in on the drums. When I dance, it's the beat that takes me away. And here I am, drawn like a magnet to Africa, a continent whose instrument - if one had to choose - would be the drum. Drumming is an essential part of life here, playing a role in every major, cultural event - weddings, funerals, church services, village warning calls, etc. My spirit says go for it. I must give drumming a try. No regrets.

Funny coincidences so far:
-First, a wise woman encouraged me to take drumming lessons; going after a desire that's been left untended will uplift and grow me, right?!
-Second, I attended a wedding where the bride's aunt (50+ years old and wearing a fancy gown, mind you) rocked the drums to "We are Family." She's apparently in a band back in Birmingham. I've never been so awestruck. It was a breathtaking, inspiring performace to say the least.
-Third, last week, I brought my students (pictured above) for netball and soccer matches at a nearby International School and coincidentally, ran into the drumming teacher. What? You have a drumming teacher? Yup. Sign me up.
-Fourth, at a dinner party last weekend, I mentioned my upcoming first lesson and this family brought it to my attention that there's a drum set up for grabs from some family leaving the country! This is getting weird.

And voila, three days after leaving Zanzibar's Music Fest is the inception of my new drumming hobby. I had my first lesson today with instructor Paulus and jamani, it was so much fun - quite a rush. Who knows, next week, I may even have a drum set in my house so I can brush up on beats at my leisure. My students may be a little shocked to hear my practice sessions. I'll have to select non-class/study time.

Welcome to our living room; don't mind the drumset.

Follow your inspiration. To what is it calling you?

Colin Borden (a good friend from Arusha), Hunter and I at the Zanzibar Music Fest last weekend. Not to be missed.
This is a SMISH. What is a SMISH? I'm still waiting on Webster's to get back to me on that. Please send any inquiries to Sarah Flint.

In the love of Kate Scully and Manga

Kate Scully has just posted her Peace Corps Partnership Project (PCPP). Who's Kate you wonder? Kate serves as the Peace Corps Volunteer doing health education work in my old village of Manga. What's a PCPP? This is like my girls dorm construction project back in 2006 that many of you supported. What's great about PCPPs is that you know every dime you contribute goes straight to the volunteer on the ground. The results are extremely impactful.

Kate is hoping to develop a new center and school to empower orphans/vulnerable kids of Manga and needs support. Developed out of a clear, pressing community need, this project will be implemented by Kate along with community leaders. This project is sure to benefit Manga's community for years to come.

In order to implement this project, Kate must raise $7200 from friends, family and other organizations in the US of A. She and the people of Manga are asking for assistance to turn this project into a reality.

The easiest way to contribute is to go to www.peacecorps.gov/contribute and select her project (Project Number 621-175). The web site is the safest and quickest way to make a donation.

Here's what Kate's written about the project (on PC site):

This project aims to found a Center and School for Orphans that will serve 88 orphans in a village in Tanzania. The center will provide those children who fail their 7th grade exams an opportunity to continue their education through vocational training right in the village where they live.

The school will be a training center for sewing and carpentry skills, and a classroom center for orphans who are still in primary school. The classroom center will help orphans prepare for their end of school exams and learn life skills and health information. Eventually, community members involved with the Center will receive income-generation training so that they can continue to expand the capacity of the Center. The number of orphans that this project hopes to assist is not finite. The school will continue to increase its capacity over the coming years and will, hopefully, help an increasing number of this village’s orphans.

If you're looking for a worthy cause, look no further.

Go Kate go. Najivunia wewe...

Initial impressions

This was how I was welcomed back to Tanzania - with a breathtaking view of Mt.Kilimanjaro out the plane window (while Mt. Meru was on my right). I was beaming.
I was then graciously shuttled by Enoch (not to be confused with 'eunoch') and Jenaya in a yellow 4X4 (nicknamed ndizi or 'the banana') to the Peace House campus under full moon light. I insisted on driving down the 5k dirt road to the school, which branches off the main road, eventually leading to the Serengeti plains. I know, I know - what a rebel am I. You don't understand. I was not permitted to drive for 3 years while in the Peace Corps. I feel like have finally arrived. To where? That's yet to be determined. But somewhere. Somehow. I have my driving test tomorrow to receive my official driving permit. It's a whole new world.
Since arriving, I've been settling into my new home, a 3 bedroom house on campus, which I'm sharing with Jenaya. It sits in quite a setting, isn't it? It is.

Our house on left; boarding facilities and dining hall in distance on right.
Karibuni nyumbani! Come visit. You'll be warmly welcomed by my roommate, Jenaya, and I. Promise. Jenaya's serving as the school's Volunteer Coordinator.
My highlight today: our school mini-bus getting stuck in the dirt in front of our house. Mmm. Our bus driver, Osca, a fellow Mbena, went overboard here, his genteel and charm overriding all sensibility. I love the guy. I knew I was at home when I met him. Origally from Iringa, he speaks my old village dialect and couldn't be more genuine. Everytime I use a Kibena greeting, he chuckles...and then translates what I said in Swahili to anyone around willing to listen. He'll be a good friend. Osca's behind the wheel if you can make him out, along with several of our students lending a hand.
The best part of this whole quandary:"God is Great" printed on this sweet bus's front window. Au siyo?

And that about sums up my first few days back in Tanzania. God is great. I'm beyond thankful to be home again and to have this opportunity to empower young people in such a spectacular setting. It feels like a mix of my last two sites: village and city; we're nestled in the peace and quiet of a village, yet we're a 20-minute drive from A'town hustle and bustle. I have to say - this beats living behind a mall.

My new job beginning in 2009 is...

at the Peace House, a secondary school in Arusha, Tanzania dedicated to providing orphans/vulnerable children with a quality and dynamic high school education so that they can reach their full potential, academically, physically and spiritually. Read more about this new school's founding, founder and mission at:

http://www.peacehousefoundation.org/index.html

http://www.startribune.com/business/33272494.html?elr=KArksi8cyaiU9PmP:QiUiacyKUnciatkEP7DhU

http://www.startribune.com/business/33272489.html?elr=KArks:DCiU1OiP:DiiUiD3aPc:_Yyc:aULPQL7PQLanchO7DiU

http://www.apria.com/resources/1,2725,494-836307,00.html

Want to meet some of Peace House's students?

Richard: http://www.peacehousefoundation.org/richard.html

Francisca: http://www.peacehousefoundation.org/francisca.html

Will you write me? Just because I'm going again doesn't mean I don't want to stay close with you friends! Stay in touch. Write a letter, like old times. It'll make you feel good:

Tait Davidson
c/o The Peace House
PO Box 13386
(Mt Meru Posta)
Arusha, Tanzania
East Africa

Otherwise, email will be a flowing. You know where to find me!

And hey, if you want to visit and do something different this year/next year, the Peace House is quite accomodating of volunteers, short and long term. More details at: http://www.peacehousefoundation.org/volunteerTZ.html

On joy and sorrow

Your joy is your sorrow unmasked.
And the selfsame well from which your laughter rises was oftentimes filled with your tears.
And how else can it be?
The deeper that sorrow carves into your being, the more joy you can contain.
Is not the cup that holds your wine the very cup that was burned in the potter's oven?
And is not the lute that soothes your spirit, the very wood that was hollowed with knives?
When you are joyous, look deep into your heart and you shall find it is only that which has given you sorrow that is giving you joy.
When you are sorrowful look again in your heart, and you shall see that in truth you are weeping for that which has been your delight.

Some of you say, "Joy is greater thar sorrow," and others say, "Nay, sorrow is the greater."
But I say unto you, they are inseparable.
Together they come, and when one sits, alone with you at your board, remember that the other is asleep upon your bed.

Verily you are suspended like scales between your sorrow and your joy.
Only when you are empty are you at standstill and balanced.
When the treasure-keeper lifts you to weigh his gold and his silver, needs must your joy or your sorrow rise or fall.

-Kahlil Gibran

Siku ya Shukrani/Day of Thanks

As my friend Lisa so eloquently described on her site (http://www.letsputthekettleon.blogspot.com):
"The Thanksgiving holiday is not just about assessing our material circumstances and being grateful for bounty. Thanksgiving is about the pause to process what we have been through and where we are now. The pilgrims were, obviously, thankful for the bounty of food they could prepare. But they were thankful for it precisely because they had been through so much. A bitter winter with ravenous disease and a severe lack of food and good shelter had taken a harsh toll on their small community. Greatly reduced in number, they had come through these and learned how to survive in their new environment. Though it had been extraordinarily tough, they recognized God’s care for them."

I want to do just that today - to pause to process and to reflect on where I am, exuding thanks particularly to those who helped me arrive to this moment. Of course, there are so many and my blog would be never-ending if I expressed thanks to EVERYone. So, I'll just focus on the last few months, through post-PC travels and since back home...

TRAVELS
"In this world, there are things you can only do alone and things you can only do with somebody else. It's important to combine the two in just the right amount."
-Haruki Murakami
Jen and Maya 'Maxwell.' I couldn't have done that trip through the wilds of lake Tanganyika, magnificent Malawi and Portuguese-speaking Mozambique without you two. Nor would I have wanted to embrace the magic alone. We met crazy and beautiful people and circumstances along the way and laughed our way through each of them. We made a good team. We budgeted (or Maya did for us:). We networked (you know it). We hitched rides that would have seemed plain stupid just a few years prior (can you make out Maya's toes amongst the goats?). We took care of each other, removing funzas as a team and even creating our own vocabulary for protection (usimHerman). We learned new things (slap shot anyone?). We gave and received feedback (tupo tried and true life skills teachers). We watched many a sun set and sun rise. I'll never forget the sunsets over what felt like the edge of the earth in Kigoma and then on Lake T as we speedboated. Thank you my sisters for the kumbukumbu.

And to all those who took us in or taught us something during our safari, I thank you. I wish I remembered all of your names. I certainly remember your faces. Here's an abbreviated version:
Thank you Crane family for your unceasing TLC.
Thank you Herman and friends for treating us like queens and teaching us about the UN piloting-for-relief scene in Kigoma.
Thank you Hussein for sharing your love of nature and your friends, the chimps, with us.
Thank you MEMP. We love your house.
Thank you Mateso. I love your coconut beans. Usikate tamaa.
Thank you MV Liemba for the good times. Kicking it since 1913. Thank you Catharina and Tim Flanagan for inspiring so many with your young spirits.
Thank you Adrienne for reminding me at Kalambo Falls the worthiness of assisting kids dealt an unfair hand, who so desperately want to improve their lives. Jipe moyo. Thank you Raos for the bike lifti to the Falls. Ulinichekesha.
Thank you Moravian church for the life-saving lifti to the crossroads, for reminding me that everything is unfolding exactly as it should.
Thank you Doris of tiny guesti in Kasanga for asking me bafuni why some of us wazungu don't like to interact, and why we (Maya, Jen and I) were different. I'm sorry not everyone treats you with the dignity you deserve, dada yangu.
Thank you Mary for being the last mama I was able to sit with jikoni in TZ. Keep on sporting that Argentina shirt with pride, mpishi wetu.
Thank you Chanza, Uncle Mike and Ash for entertaining us in Sumbawanga. Usituchanza!
Thank you Deb McCracken for playing hostess for the mostest, including running guide up mountains. Karibu A'town.
Thank you Wiz, PCV star of Tumbuko.
Thank you Bright Tate, the one and only of the Ntchisi Forrest. You are the coolest.
Thank you sweet mama on the truck to Bright's site (in Mwansambo), who'd fallen on her face and lip. Thank you for reminding me how tough it is to be a woman in so many places. I pray you were helped and stitched in that hospital where we dropped you. I hope you were cared for like you've cared for so many.
Thank you PC-Malawi. Ya'll rock. Almost as much as PC-Tanzania :).
Thank you Nick and Lindsey Wood. Is there any couple more generous, gracious?
Thank you Scott, PCV of Mt. Mulanje. Your passion is infectious! Keep on sharing that magical mountain and all its wonder.
Thank you Tait Wade and Christina for making the world feel smaller.
Thank you lovely PC ladies of Vilankulo, for sharing your time and home with us.
Thank you Jit and gang for the good conversations and laughs in Tofu and Jo'burg.
Thank you CD and family for opening your home in Maputo wide open and for showering us with your love...and first world amenities :).

"The moment you love, you are unlimited" - Yogi Tea (imbibed at the Mushroom Farm in Malawi)

BACK HOME in the US of A
I want to thank...
My mom, who loves me unconditionally no matter how weird I feel or how weird I am!
My brother, who graciously hosted me on his couch for a week. Mr. responsable, he is on track, earning a solid living - someone in the family has to do it. :)
My uncles and aunts who support me even though I'm doing things a little differently.
Hanner and Corrie, my oldest and truest sisters in ATL. Thanks for being there, for understanding. Always.
Hilbean for being the best listener I know. Period.
K.B. for keeping things real.
Mwindaji kwa kunisikiliza, kunihimiza na kunifarijika kwa musiki yako.
Childers who makes me laugh. Hard.
Lee Lee for your sweet sweet spirit and empathy. And love for chocolate truffles.
Stef for your spontaneity and loyalty (which borders on insane sometimes). Tupo pamoja kabisa, from Mlalo to Marekani.
Scottie for your support and humor. You're still the guy who rapped all of "Baby Got Back" for our skit. We, I haven't forgotten.
Bomba Mbaya for being the best 'other' brother I could ask for. And for your chivalry, bila shaka.
Karen Blanchard for your guidance and support through the grueling thesis process. Thanks for sharing your light.
Barack Obama for bringing a new paradigm of servant leadership to our country and world.

And for Brattleboro and the SIT Graduate Institute, a place of great growth, whose students and learning environment helps so many become better.

"Somewhere are places where we have really been, dear spaces of our deeds and faces, scenes we remember as unchanging because there we changed."
- W.H. Auden

In closing this monologue of thanks, I thought I'd share some Inspiration from the Wood's refrigerator in Blantyre:
"May God bless us with discomfort at easy answer, half-truths and superficial relationships so that we may live from deep within our hearts.
May God bless us with anger at injustice, oppression and exploitation of God's creations so that we may work for justice, freedom and peace.
May God bless us with tears to shed for those who suffer pain, rejection, hunger and war, so that we may reach out our hands to comfort them and to turn their pain into joy.
And may God bless us with just enough foolishness to believe that we can make a difference in the world, so that we can do what others claim cannot be done: to bring justice and kindness to all our children and neighbors."
Amen.

what's weird

squirrels. squirrels run over in the street:(. fresh squeezed lemonade. ice. comfy beds with lots of pillows. driving. charging everything on a credit card. nice, well-fed dogs. being called by my real name. not drinking tea around 10 am. good music in every form of transport. fall leaves. customer service. tipping. wine that's not necessarily south african and not from a box. salmon. bagels. cream cheese. all varieties of cheese. talking on the phone without having to refill on vouchers. everyone - of all ages and all occupations - now using a blackberry or an iphone. having doors opened for me. toilet paper and paper towels in every bathroom. ambulance sirens...

I say

I'm proud to be an American again.
And I am now officially Tait Davidson M.A. Now clearly, I didn't do it for the title, but I must say - it feels oh so good to have my Master's done and done. The long "Master's International" journey is over...and so is 8 years of Bush in office.
I presented my thesis on orphan care and support in Tanzania the day after Obama was elected president. What a joy that was. I even inserted this slide into my Powerpoint for laughs (the same way I learned he had won on TV):

Barack Obama
44th President of the United States of America

You better believe it.
Say it again.
Ahhhhhh. So happy.
I have not stopped smiling since 11 pm Tuesday night.
I have a feeling our new president will keep us smiling.

I love...

Small worlds! Really. Is there anything better?

I flew back from Guatemala today (was there for a close high school friend's wedding - magical) and who did I run into in the airport, but Victor, the Director of the orphanage my friend Alice and I visited back in May in Western Rwanda! What?!

I love chance encounters like that. It was too sweet being present with that inspiring man again...and not just anywhere, but in his home country. Of all places! He was home visiting his Mom, who's on the mend in Guatemala City.

Grace. Getting what we don't deserve. It is a gift, totally unearned and unexpected, one that we could have never orchestrated on our own... "The presence of God can be experienced as much between people as in them, and God's grace is what makes the connections between people that wouldn't happen otherwise" (John V. Taylor)... "It's a little bit of extra help when you're feeling stuck or doomed or, probably, hopefully, out of good ideas on how to save yourself, and how to salvage the situation or the friendship or the whatever it is..I wish it was accompanied by harp music so you could know that's what was happening but for me it's that extra pause or that extra breath or that extra minute's patience against all odds" (Anne Lamott).

I like that. These quotes originate in a super book I just read, graciously sent to me from the author, Cathleen Falsani, whom I met on her visit to Global Alliance this past year. I feel special because it's the first time my name's ever been mentioned in a famous person's book. Thanks Cathleen. I was happy to learn you're an ENFP, too. And hey, your book's nzuri sana. It was just what I needed to read upon returning home.

Look it up friends: Sin Boldly by Cathleen Falsani.

"We show each other grace, we are grace for one another, and I'd like to think we inspire each other to be gracious to the rest of the world."

"Sin boldly. Believe boldly. Rejoice boldly. Pray boldly."

"One is changed by what one loves." - Joseph Brodsky

"Got to let go of the things that keep you tethered; take your place with grace and then be on your way." - Bruce Cockburn

On my way I go - back to SIT for my Master's thesis presentation. It's been four years in the making. I'm anxious to be done, but I'm trying to remember: IT'S ABOUT THE PROCESS, NOT THE PRODUCT. You PIM 64-ers out there know what I'm talking about!

Back "home"

"I had a dream I..stood beneath an orange sky. Yes I had a dream I..stood beneath an orange sky. With my brother standing by..said brother you know..it's a long road we've been walking on..such a long road we've been walking on. And I had a dream I..stood beneath an orange sky..with my sister standing by. I said sister, here is what I know now..in your love, my salvation lies..in your love..my salvation lies in your love, in your love, in your love. But sister, you know I'm so weary. And you know sister, my heart's been broken. Sometimes, sometimes, my mind is too strong..to carry on. When I am alone..when I've thrown off the weight of this crazy stone..when I've lost all care for the things I own..that's when I miss you..Well, I had a dream I..stood beneath an orange sky with my brother and my sister standing by."
-Alexi Murdoch, Orange Sky

Home sweet home. What does that mean anyway - "home?" Is it where my Mom or Dad lives? Is it where I'm currently working, living? Is it France or Tanzania or America? Georgia or Florida or North Carolina or California? Is it where the heart is, as the saying goes? If that's the case, then my home is a lot of places.

Feeling "home" in a lot of places - is that a bad thing, I wonder, strolling through the Atlanta airport? I haven't been in Hartsfield, the busiest airport in the world, in about 14 months since my last trip back for my grandmother's funeral. I take a deep breath, appreciating the energy and diversity one senses in an airport, a crossroads leading to any major city in the world.

How ironic it feels, passing a crew of soldiers, decked in camo, heading to or from war, I'm not sure. In walks the returning Peace Corps volunteer - me - the antithesis to what they all stand for, to what they say to the world. Peace or war? Exchange or isolation? I say peace wins. I think Obama's got the right idea when he says he wants to double the Peace Corps. Change, real change happens on a person-to-person level, through relationships. How can we hate Muslims when we know Muslims? We can't discriminate or judge when we relate as human beings. Wouldn't the world be different if we could simply view each other as human beings, instead of as 'this' (insert the box of your choosing), or as 'that'?!

"If we change the way we look at things, the things we look at change" -A billboard in Johannesburg

My thoughts wander back to the elections, a mere two weeks away. Aside from the market crashing, what an ideal time it is to return back to the US. This election is historic, especially in the city of Atlanta, where Martin Luther King Jr.'s dream was born for freedom for all, black and white. At long last, in 2008, a black man named Obama stands on a precipice, about to become the leader of our nation, our world. Imagine what his election as president, a true representation of America as a melting pot, will say to the world! So many thought they'd never see the day. The day will come. The day is near.

"We are on a security threat level, code orange...please pay attention to your belongings" echoes above me on the loud speaker. Rudely awakened from my daydreaming, I ask myself, did I hear that right?! Unfortunately, yes. The echo returns. I am indeed back in the fear-filled United States.

Why must we be overtaken, controlled by this fear? This is exactly what's keeping us insular, separated from the rest of the world. This same fear is what is preventing so many from supporting Obama. He's not what they know. He's not comfortable, relatable, likeable, some argue. I'm proud to say Obama is all of those things to me.

Maybe it's because my home's in so many places that he is relatable. I have left the bubble of Buckhead, Atlanta. I have studied and worked abroad. I have befriended Muslims. I have known and loved people that are unlike me. And I have felt a deep, human connection with these same people. I had a Muslim guide in Mahale National Park named Hussein and didn't think twice about it. He is my brother. He is my friend. We are all connected if we have a heart beat.

If Peace Corps has taught me anything, it's taught me what it means to be a human being and how to love other human beings. It's shown me that we are all essentially the same. It's revealed to me the powerful, magical network that is life...and that life is about relationships, about connecting. Period.

Peace Corps has also exposed my humanness, my strengths and weaknesses - mostly the latter. I am not perfect. I am broken. I am weak. But I am also strong.

"Above all the grace and the gifts that Christ gives to his beloved is that of overcoming self." -St. Francis of Assisi

I amble on, refusing to enter the shuttle, the fastest way to baggage claim. Instead, I opt for traversing the Zimbabwe exhibit, which has been displaying sculpture and radiating drumbeats down a long corridor since I can remember. I live for that little stretch before entering reality again. It's my last taste of Africa for a while.

And with a giant exhale, I put my weight on the giant escalator leading up, up, up...to my Mom's embrace. It feels good to be home, even if this is just one of the many homes where my heart resides.

"Be content with what you have...never will I leave you; never will I forsake you." -Hebrews 13:5

"To be free is not merely to cast off one's chains, but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others." -Mandela (from Apartheid Museum in Jo'burg)

*MY NEW MOBILE #: 404.645.2717*

Post-PC travels (updated)...

I. Tanzania (see Jen's blog - link on right)
Our travels through TZ consisted of copious amounts of time on Lake Tanganyika ("tanga" meaning sail and "nyika" meaning wilderness), a body of water not visited by the three of us during our service. So vast, it felt like an ocean.

Departing for Mahale National Park, speed-boating out of Kilando village on the shore.

Sokwe or chimpanzees we observed in Mahale. Yes, they're real.

Jen, Maya and our friend and guide, Hussein, at a swimming hole in the Park.

Maya, the dare devil, living life on the edge at Kalambo Falls at the end of Lake Tanganyika. Transportation required to arrive at the falls: 1 lorry lifti (45 minutes), 1 bike lifti (3 hours), a lifti in a bishop's Land Cruiser (20 minutes) and a coaster ride back to Kasanga (45 minutes) - all in one day. We should write a book on liftis after this journey. Scoring liftis entails serious patience and creativity, but boy are they satisfying.

II. Malawi
Double-click on map for a closer look (http://www.jacanaent.com/Maps/Malawi1.gif)


Officially departed from Tanzania, we had just stamped our passports at Malawi Immigration and changed our beloved shilingi into kwacha. Leaving is such sweet sorrow...

I apologize, but I couldn't resist sharing this moment on my first mini-bus in Malawi: vomit. All over me and my window. The woman sitting 2 seats in front of me "spilled her milk," if you will, and I tried my hardest not to cry over it. Repulsive.

Malawi is a cozy country nestled between mountains on the East and a spectacular lake on the West, quite fittingly called Lake Malawi. Since departing our beloved Tanzania and entering through the Northern town of Karonga, we've enjoyed a forest lodge above Chitimba, not far from Livingstonia, where we toured the "Stonehouse," a museum with history on Livingstone and Malawi in general. We then bounced to a Peace Corps gathering on the lake (near Chinteche), where we camped on the beach along with about 40 other volunteers. It's bizarre yet great really how similar all of our journeys are as PCV's, no matter where we're serving. "He just ET'd, how sad...What'd you think of MSC?...Have you tried that bagel recipe in the cookbook?...Let's go get some rice and beans in the market to save money eh?..." Now wouldn't those be the same conversations overheard at any PC-TZ gathering?

A quintissential Malawian cafe. Note the milk tea and fresh scones. Mmmm. They've got Tanzania won on breakfast breads.

We were invited as honored guests by my old Camp Merrie-Woode friend, Bright Tate. Great name huh? We hadn't seen each other since 1990, yet not much has changed. I've been beaming since the moment she ran up and hugged me in her red surfing shorts and Coca-Cola t-shirt. I couldn't help remembering the old CMW adage: "Make new friends, but keep the old; one is silver and the other's gold."


After enjoying the lakeshore and overloading on too many peanut-butter sandwiches, we ventured via "hitching" as they call it here in PC-Malawi (i.e. catching any lifti, dala or truck one can find) to Bright's site on the Ntchisi Plateau. The girl lives at the gate to Ntchisi Forest, a national conservation site, where she's serving as a Forest Officer. Jealous anyone? Green with envy perhaps? Well, there's reason to be - her site is a spot dreams are made of. Bas.

*If you'd like to read/see more, this historical Ntchisi lodge sits practically nextdoor to her site: www.ntchisi.com*

Lifti #105? on the way to Ntchisi. This was one fine vehicle. Bags already strapped on the back. Tieni!

The three of us felt like we had somehow "come home" as we caught up on laundry (hand washing like the good ole days at the watering hole), made home-cooked meals over a gas stove (thanks to Bright's mom, even Velveeta cheese made an appearance), slept starting at 9 pm every night (darkness is powerful in the village!), cherished sunsets over the magnificent mountains, and laid out every night in her courtyard to talk, listen to BBC and admire the sky full of stars. Bright taught me about Scorpius. I'll remember that. She also shared her beloved forest with us on our last day where we traipsed through lush plant life, passing monstrous trees, and crossing small streams as monkeys and birds called high above. It's been the highlight of Malawi for me to date. I'm so grateful for having had a village experience, for hearing the local greetings, for acquiring more of a pulse of what real Malawi life looks, tastes and feels like, albeit brief.

"Muli bwanji?" "Tulibwino"...Chichewa is tough, but similar to Kibena in its structure. Thankfully, Bantu languages have a lot in common. Still, we Tanzania RPCV's are aching to speak Swahili, to connect on a deeper level with people, and have only found a few Swahili speakers to engage with so far. We ain't in Tanzania anymore are we?!


At last, we have found ourselves in the capital: Lilongwe. Bright guided us here from her village via small buses this morning and led us promptly to our new haven: the PC transit house. Yes, PC-Malawi is blessed enough to have houses for current volunteers to rest and cook - complete with full kitchen, refrigerator and grill for BBQ'ing in their expansive lawn. Furthermore, there are full-time staff who clean sheets and guards who ensure security. Although PCV's here have spoken poorly about "the big city," preferring Blantyre, I'm impressed with the greenery, landscaping and manageability of the place so far...not to mention the TLC!

You like my COS tattoo Mom?

Moreover, I'm ecstatic to have some days to recuperate the old body and relish in some city comforts, especially since it's been over 10 days since I've slept in a real bed. Am I getting old? (speaking of, we have a list going in my journal - a wazee competition of sorts - of all of our ailments to date) Camping on cement floors and sand isn't cutting it for my 29-year old self. My body's clearly fatigued, but my soul is still shining. It's time I listen to my body and give it some of what it wants: 3 balanced meals/day, fruit fruit fruit, solid sleep in a real bed (did I already say that?), warm showers, internet catch-up, quiet time and maybe even a run or two around the PC transit house, which is conveniently located in a sweet little neighborhood off the main roads. Thank goodness for Peace Corps. It is truly FAMILY, in all senses of the word.

Blantyre and Mt. Mulanje: We relished in some R&R with Nick and Lindsay, friends of friends living and working for an international school. They took us in and their brother James spoiled us with good cooking. I attended my first church service of the trip which was nice. We soon departed for a 2-day hike on their neighboring mountain, Mulanje, having been connected with a PCV there named Scott.
We traipsed around Mt. Mulanje (nearly 6,000 ft) with PCV Scott, our fearless fire ranger and guide. The "hut" (a loose term - very luxurious) he led us to, as well as the hike (Lichenya route), was fabulous. The fire we were forced to run through on the way down was not. :) It brought back bad memories of the fire at Crescent H Ranch when I lived out in Wyoming in 2001. Nature is awesome. We are not in control.


III. Mozambique
Tete via Blantyre: We scored a steamy lifti with a jovial Malawian truck driver on his 18 wheeler. At the border crossing, I spotted this mural depicting HIV/AIDS prevalence in Mozambique. Notice the hottest spots are near Beira due to heavy truck traffic. It's the same "transport corridor" phenomena that occurs along the Mbeya-Makambako-Mafinga road. Where truckers are passing, HIV spreads at devastating rates. The prevalence reaches as high as 26.5 here (compared to Tanzania's 8%)!
Mchoio: chill little town in NW, serving as a resting spot on our way to/from Pinha Longa. We stayed at La Fronteira, a magical haven nestled in a eucalyptus forest, surrounded by waterfalls. From the trail to La Fronteira, we met countless Zimbabweans traveling to/from their homes in search of supplies, sustenance (one 14-year old girl sat with my on the bus, tasked with buying 4 kg of rice; apparently, t's remarkably cheaper in Moz than in Zimbabwe, she said. She embarks on this shopping trip monthly for her family).

Zimbabwe - we all know - is a mess, but did you know that children aren't even attending school? Even schools have sadly come to a halt while people struggle to make ends meet. Now if that's not an indication of hitting rock bottom as a society, I don't know what is. We met a handful of Zimbabweans with impeccable English on the trail and on the roads in Mchoio. We were grateful for the enlightenment they provided us with on the reality of their situation back in "Zim."
Vilankulo: We stayed with two current PCV's in this sleepy beach town, interestingly full of NGO's. They both work for CARE International in OVC support (helping orphans and vulnerable kids) and IGA (income-generating activities). The following day, Jen and I decided to go on a boat ride to the archipelego under Rasta Eddy's wings. We assumed our boat adventure would be via dhow, but our dreams dissipated as we approached a tiny speed boat with a 15 horsepower engine (see far right). After a choppy hour of ups and downs, we reached Magaruque island and settled in to some sweet snorkeling and fresh fish lunch. It was worth it despite the inauspicious start.

Sundowners, provided by our new friends Jose and Ricky from Spain and Vancouver. They even played a little Celine Dion to create a "Titanic" moment. Estamos Juntos.


Eddy's mom and sister, preparing dinner: cocunut mixed with greens and cassava.

The next morning, after a nice jog along the beach, I went down to the girls' community well to collect water for bathing. Filling my bucket at the source brought frustration; as is the story of my Mozambique experience (aside from running into Zimbabweans who speak English), I was unable to communicate and failed to ask simple questions of my friend's neighbors, mamas, kids. Erg. Struggling up their hill in the sand, one mama offered to carry my bucket for me if I paid her 10 meticais (she wrote the number 10 in the sand to clarify), roughly 50 cents. I refused, obstinately. Sometimes it feels better to do things oneself...especially if it brings laughter.


Surfing at Tofo Beach. Who's sponsored by Quicksilver? We are.
Maya, Jit - our surfing coach - and Jen enjoying gentle Tofo beach, perfect for beginners. Jit is a current medical student in Leeds and kindly volunteered to teach us how to catch waves. After an hour of serious wipe-outs (as a concession, Maya did say my wipe-outs looked cool) and bruising, we finally stood up on our foam long boards. Briefly. Albeit brief, it felt great to learn a new sport in such an exotic location. Thank you Jit.




Being silly on our final lifti from Tofo Beach to Maputo, with a Mozambiquan and a Dutch guy, both gentlemen. We reached Christine's house at 9 pm.

We've greatly enjoyed the impressive capital of Mozambique. It feels expansive, much bigger than Dar. After using a laundy machine for the first time all trip (glorious), we ventured out to see what this city has to offer, especially in terms of art (visited the National Museum - contemporary), music and history. The fish market also provided fun. What a vibrant spot! We selected what fresh goodies we wanted - Calamari, Brownfish, Tiger prawns - and then had a restaurant grill them up with butter, lemon and cilantro. Mmmm. Being with a family has made the end of my trip all the more special.

I bus tonight to Jo'burg with Jit and friends, who serendipitously depart at the same time as my flight. It'll feel strange separating from the girls I've spent the last 6 weeks - not to mention the last 3 years in Peace Corps - with, sharing the rollercoaster that is life and travel together. Jen and Maya will continue their adventure (continue checking on their experiences via http://www.jenintanzania.blogspot.com) as a tops two-some to South Africa, Namibia and Angola. Naona wivu kidogo, but am ready to embrace friends and family at home. It has been too long! Atlanta, here I come.

My imminent return to the US of A from Johannesburg: October 19th:( Until then, I'll be savoring every last African sunset...

A fitting quote post-debate

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime."
-Mark Twain

Is Obama the only one concerned with American perception abroad? It sure seemed that way in yesterday's debates. I simply can't understand how American people could possibly feel comfortable voting two "mavericks" into power, one of whom having just (last year) acquired a passport to leave the USA!?! Considering the state of our world today, that is frightening, friends. That is truly "dangerous," McCain.

Tom Daschle, the former Democratic Senate leader and a senior aide to Obama, said, "With absolutely no experience, are we ready, if necessary, to place our future in her (Palin's) hands as commander in chief and our premier negotiator with other world leaders?"

I feel extremely blessed to have had a plethora of opportunities to travel, to learn and to work abroad. Not everyone is so lucky, but certainly the leaders of our nation should have extensive experience outside of our borders, to increase understanding, to decrease ethnocentrism, and our all-too-common assumption as Americans that we are the best and that we know all. Listening and exchanging goes a long way. Our country could do more of that. Obama, as President, will do just that. He is the change we need so desperately.

Please America. Say no to more of the same. Say no to insularity. Let's say yes to Obama!

"Let my heart be broken with the things that break the heart of God"

Kili Climb is now behind us, but never forgotten

"We shared what life was meant for and thus the depth of meaning for each of us: Consolation in the midst of hardship, Leadership by way of service to one another, Strength through group unity, Relationship in telling and building stories, Encouragement through humor, Discovery of gifts through the admittance of need. I could go on, but suffice to say a group of strangers became family."
-Steve Haas

TUPO PAMOJA: Paul, Logan, Shaban, Elizabeth, Jeannette, Stefanie (Supporter, but didn't climb with us), Erin, Anna and me (Not pictured but who climbed with us: Vayan)




Home visits to Neema and Anna's homes, with everyone sporting their new sunglasses. Thanks Williams family!


Destination: Rongai Route. 6 days on Mt. Kilimanjaro. Are you reeeaaaaaady?! Please note Simon, our guide, towering above. Enthusiasm is clearly NOT his weakness.


Life skills discussion around the dinner table. Many a story were shared here. Daily topics of discussion in order: Goal-setting, Confidence, Role Models, Peer Pressure, and Achievement. Everyone was a student. Who were the teachers? Depends on who you ask!


I know you Americans out there want to know - who made it to the top? :) We're so goal-oriented, aren't we? Erin, Warren (videographer), Elizabeth, Logan, Emmanuel, Vayan and I summitted Uhuru Peak at 19,340 ft (5895 m); Neema, Shaban and Anna made it to Gilman's Point, at the lip of the crater, a major feat and very close to full summit at 18,638 ft (5681 m). However, this experience was not about who made it and who didn't. It was about being together, sharing our stories, our ups and downs together over 6 days. As Simon says, making the peak is a plus, but that's not what it's all about. We all pushed ourselves individually, as far as we could go. And that's something to be proud of!




My head's still spinning from this adventure. To symbolize the movement and growth we've all experienced through this time together - Tanzanian and American alike - I'm keeping this photo sideways. So, let us look sideways. Let us challenge ourselves. Let us think outside the box. Let us step outside ourselves. Let us push ourselves to be better. Let us venture outside of our comfort zones, our comforts. There's more to this LIFE than ME. LIVE!

I'm now embarking on African travels with two fellow Peace Corps friends, Maya and Jen. We'll be sharing life on the road until late October when I'll return to Atlanta, GA.

After 3 amazing years serving in Tanzania, I am at long last homeward bound. Ahh but where is home? Home is where the heart is. My heart feels like it's in many places, but you know, that's not a bad thing.

Again, sincere thanks to everyone that made this climb possible! We couldn't have done it without you all's support - in all forms.

To Faith. Hope. And Love. Love being the greatest of them all,
Tait
*More pictures coming soon at: http://walkingthewalkonkili.blogspot.com